South to Bellevue Beach

Another well kept secret spot, Bellevue Beach was our next stop on July 26th.
After one night we decided to stay for one week. On that day we saw our first traffic light in two weeks. Fogo Island may have spoiled our Newfoundland get away experience. The bustle of traffic, with large trucks and drivers who are in a rush along with the smell of exhaust, hit us between the eyes on TCH #1. (Trans-Canada Highway)

From our RV we can see the gravel beach which is part of a sheltered bay while from an over a one kilometer long spit to the left, the sound of the waves from Trinity Bay carry across the park.

Friday July 27th we back tracked, with the truck, to Clarenville to use the internet and to shop for groceries. Along the way we took several side trips into small villages and coves.
The photo of the filleted cod drying on a flake was taken in Little Harbour. Here there was no sign of life or activity except for three people who looked surprised to see someone they did not know. This village, less than 10 km. from the Trans-Canada Highway, looked like it was in limbo.

Arnold's Cove was checked out as was the Come-by-Chance oil refinery. Arnold's cove showed the influence of steady paycheques from the refinery. The fishing village character was overpowered by a large subdivision that could have been “anywhere Ontario”.

Our Photo album
-
-

Let's stay one more day...

We did not leave Fogo island until Thursday July 26th on the 1:45 P.M. ferry. One final trip was made to the Island Bake Shop in Shoal Harbour where this time we found the cafe full of local people who were eating lunch. Delicious cod chowder was enjoyed while bran muffins and a tray of very sweet squares were purchased for the road.

Two more remote communities were explored; Island Harbour and Deep Bay.
Over the top scenery with enveloping peace can be experienced here. We stopped in Deep Bay to talk with a couple who were just returning home. At the mere mention of patchwork quilts Ruth suddenly found herself inside this “spotless” home examining about a dozen quilts, each one more eye catching than the one before! Given the labour required the prices seemed fair, but we are in the “getting rid of things mode”.
All but one quilt were quite similar to the ones that were made by Ruth's mother and Aunts over the years.

Enjoy our final photos of this remote paradise.



Our Photo album
-

A special goodbye

The cable to repair the bedroom slide arrived Tuesday, July 24. Jannich enlisted the help of Kay's son to direct him to a local mechanic who was willing to work after hours. The whole job was trying. Kay works at the Lions Club RV Park, booking in vehicles and helping campers feel at home.
We feel she could probably assist no matter what the dilemma – she has connections.

Two other women, Anne Marie and Karla, Kay's granddaughter also work here organizing the Brimstone Head Folk Festival. These are the three accommodating women who helped us when we arrived.

Knock, knock on our RV door Tuesday- knowing that we had planned on leaving the next day they had a special goodbye before they went home from work. Taking us completely by surprise, Anne Marie sat down by our picnic table and began to play her accordion - true Newfoundland music – for the love of it.
Kay danced a little jig and Jannich ran to get the camera.

Pictures do not capture the smell of the sea, the sound of the wind or the joy on the faces of the friendly people who love to share.

These women had previously showered us with pickled mussels, shrimp, cod fillets and tongues. Kay has supplied us with a vast amount of Newfoundland reading material by giving us several issues of downhomer magazines.


Our photos;
-

Sad to leave

One evening as we sat outside enjoying the quietness, broken only by the sound of the wind, we saw several whales blowing sprays high into the air over the water.
On the horizon an iceberg could be seen. With just a slight glance to the left, hikers climbing Brimstone Head could be observed. These particular hikers were people who had pitched their tent near the shore. They were on the last part of their Newfoundland exploration before leaving for home in Holland.

Turning again slightly to the left a bake apple picker walking over the rocks and bog could be watched as he picked these berries for his wife.

Very strong winds sweep beside Brimstone Head from the ocean and continuously rock our RV. We have been told that these winds do not compare to the immense strength of the winds during the winter.

The air is cool, the wind is gusting but the sun is warm... life is good!

View our album
-

Marconi wireless station

Between 1912 and 1933 a Marconi wireless relay station operated from a 300 feet above sea level area on the south side of the town of Fogo. Over the years several primary operators and their families lived in a house beside the tower. One purpose of this station was to maintain communication between fishing and sealing ships. The Fogo station was the second place to pick up the distress signal from the Titanic. The telegraph center was closed in 1933 as this method of communication became outdated.

Using local labour a finely crafted interpretation center was completed in June near the site of the old tower. The inside of the entire two storey building is finished with narrow tongue and groove pine boards. A panoramic view of the town and harbour of Fogo can be appreciated from a wrap around, covered outdoor deck. As always in Fogo a stiff wind blows up and over the rocks and whistles through the low bushes and flowers. The third, most difficult hiking trail starts from this area.

This island is a nature lover's paradise! For one week the view that we have had out the back window of our RV has been one of low rocks, marsh, bog and small ponds filled with lily pads. Many individuals have been picking bakeapple fruit in the last few days in this area. These small wild berries are made into jam. Rubber boots and patience are a necessity as these berries grow in bogs, are rather small and are found close to the ground.

Island Bakery

A visit to neighbouring villages was on the agenda for Saturday, July 21. After driving through Fogo Central, where the modern Health Care Center, school and tourist information drop in are located, we stopped at an isolated roadside bakery. What a surprise! Here we found a very well supplied shop. A fragrant aroma of fresh baking and coffee could be noted while the shelves filled with bread, squares, muffins and pies tempted the taste buds. Upon peeking into a second room, which faced a cove, we found a tastefully decorated cafe area. Calling into the kitchen, we ordered coffee and muffins. We were alone in a room that would seat twenty. New furniture and a small gift area completed this spotless bakeshop.We will be back.

Magnificent view

From Garrison Point at the foot of Fogo Head we saw several icebergs on Wednesday without the need of a boat tour. On Thursday Jannich saw two whales from the top of Fogo Head.
The town of FOGO.

National Historic Site

Joe Batt's Arm, named for a deserter from the crew of the explorer James Cook, who charted this coast in 1736, was our next stop. After driving around the narrow, gravel streets of this very small settlement we drove on to Tilting. It has been designated a National Historic Site of Canada. Here the Irish Heritage is evident through the many small stick fences, predominant shamrocks and Irish names. We have never seen two more isolated settlements.

We took a tour of the Historic Dwyer House. Two happy, cheerful teenage girls were in charge of this site. After seeing through the austere house we were shown across a walkway made of the same small sticks, over the water to a small building where cod were hand processed. We learned about the flake where the cod were laid to dry and were shown their gift area. It was refreshing to note the pride and the sense of community displayed by our guide! We decided as we left these areas that they were too isolated for us.

Our photo album

-
-

WHAT IS A CAPLIN?

During our stay in Twillingate, Jannich went toward the lighthouse to watch people fishing for Caplin. These 4 to 6 inch fish run in schools in the evenings and are caught with cast and dip nets from the shore. The fish seem to be similar to smelt which are caught in fresh water streams in Ontario. The local people place these fish in five gallon pails with one cup of coarse salt and let them sit for three days. After this the Caplin are rinsed and laid on nets to dry in the sun. These fish make a delicious winter snack.

Where ever Caplin are plentiful whales can be found. Caplin are a GOOD SNACK ALL AROUND!!!

Our photo album
-
-

Extended Town of Fogo stay!

We had planned to stop here for several days while taking day trips to other areas. When Jannich set up the RV and put out the slides one of the metal cables in the bedroom slide started to growl and grind – half frayed and ready to snap. We are parked close to the Lions Community Activity Centre and they kindly offered the use of their telephone. After a few phone calls a new cable is on its way from the RV factory in Ontario.
Jannich will have to install it upon arrival. We are not expecting the part until Monday. No problem, we are not in a hurry and have no deadlines. This extended stay will give us time to explore the magnificent system of hiking trails this town has developed. Difficult sections of climbing have been fitted with pressure treated lumber steps , railings and viewing platforms. See pictures.

The community built all of this during the off season fishing months. Apparently, the women carried fairly large rocks to mark the paths up these inclines in buckets while the men of the town fashioned the steps and handrails.

Garrison Point is the beginning of the trail to Fogo Head ,which is 338 feet above sea level while Brimstone Head is 300 feet. We have been told that the third trail is far more difficult! This concentrated, cooperative effort is one more indicator of the depth of detrmination one can note of the people of Newfoundland.

Our photo album
-
-

Road to the Isles Adventure Continues...

Our ISLES experience continued on Tuesday July 17th when we left Twillingate and traveled to catch the ferry to Fogo island. We had one last glimpse of the iceberg as we left town.

The ferry trip to Fogo island was less than one hour and Winston was allowed up on deck with us. On our trip from North Sidney to Port aux Basque he was put into a kennel with several other barking dogs around him. Not a good experience.

When we arrived at the only RV park in Fogo Proper three very accommodating women helped us. One said that we did not need to pay until tomorrow in case we did not like our site. The second women said that she would cook and bring over some freshly caught mussels.
Fogo Island is a mere 25 km wide, and was first settled in the 1680s. The area remained relatively isolated well into the 20th century. The Town of Fogo, or “Fogo Proper”, is the largest on the island. It was most likely not named for the North Atlantic fog, but after the Portuguese word “Fuego” for “fire”, which were the signs of Beothuk encampments frequently seen by early settlers. The community was used as a fishing station by the French, Spanish and Portuguese during the 16th and 17th centuries.

Our RV is parked at the foot of Brimstone Head. (It is the reason we cannot get a satellite signal for our TV viewing). This significant landmark is considered to be one of the “Four Corners Of The Earth” by the Flat Earth Society. Hope we do not drop off when we walk up there later!

Our photo album
-
-

A day of rest!!

We decided to rest and relax today, July 16th.

About 11 A.M. we drove to Durell, a small neighbouring village, which is at the top of Twillingate Island. At the end of the paved road Jannich suggested that we take the dirt road to see where it went. When that ended a sign informed us that any further travel would be dangerous we chose to walk. After walking, skirting prickely bushes and stepping over spongy wet ground and admiring the many species of magnificent rock hugging flowers for about ¾ of a mile, we decided to climb to the top of a rocky lookout.
We were on the tip of the peninsula but still not at the edge of the sea. Did we mention the blistering heat, stiff wind and Winston huffing and panting? After Ruth and Winston climbed to the top of a bluff Jannich yelled, ”How did you get up there wearing sandals?” “Pull on the shrub branches to give leverage.” was the answer.

Purple miniature marsh iris grow here in abundance. Ruth has bought these previously for our garden pond area only to have them die. Southern Ontario does not have a hospitable climate.

The beauty of the provincial flower, the Pitcher Plant could be admired, with its shades of burgundy and yellow, throughout this tundra like area.

On the way to our mobile home we purchased “cod tongues” for dinner.

We were told by a local merchant that the iceberg we saw yesterday was just an icecube compared to the ones that came through here in June.

Tomorrow we are leaving for Fogo Island to take in a Tilting festival. WE WILL NOT BE THE SAME WHEN WE RETURN TO ONTARIO!

Our photo album
-
-
-

Worth the drive!

Saturday July 14th we arrived in Twillingate Newfoundland and booked into an oceanside RV park for several days.

Twillingate extends into the iceberg corridor of the north east coast of Newfoundland. This is a historical and very picturesque town.

After traveling the approximately 100 miles by ferry from North Sidney, NS to Port aux Basque, NL we arrived at 6:30 P.M. Friday in such dense fog that all we could see were rocks covered by low spreading bushes. Saturday we traveled east and north on the Trans Canada Highway (TCH) to central Newfoundland then left this highway to go north to Twillingate. What an experience! It is surrounded by low foreboding rock outcrops, white houses and docks that are perched on the edge of the sea. This is Newfoundland.

On the highway into Twillingate we spotted an iceberg glistening and shimmering in the 28 degree C sunshine. That evening a meal of traditional Newfoundland cooking was enjoyed with dessert being a "partridgeberry" sundae.

Sunday July 15th at 1 P.M. we left on a boat tour to get up close and personal with an iceberg. This was the same one we had seen from the highway. Twenty meters extended above the ocean as it glistened from the ice water running down its sides. This berg was stuck in a large bay, landlocked on 3 sides and will melt there.

When we arrived back at our mobile home, where Winston had spent the afternoon alone, we were tired, sunburned and happy.

Our photo album

_
_

The village of Baddeck

After a restful morning, we drove and walked the streets of Baddeck. In spite of the presence of many large, magnificent Inns, outdoor cafes, advertised kayak trips and inviting B&B's we did not see many other tourists.
It appears that Baddeck is a stopping point while en route to and from Newfoundland or the Cabot Trail Tourist Areas.

Beginning in New Brunswick and continuing through Nova Scotia multi coloured Lupins could be seen growing wild along the roads. Beautiful...

"The traveler sees what he sees.
The tourist sees what he has come to see"

G. K. Cherterton

This appropriate quote is from The Newfoundland/Labrador Tourist Guide.

Heading towards THE ROCK... Newfoundland that is.

Well, here we are... just steps from the Cabot trail in Cape Breton.

When one could pull buckets out of the sea filled to the brim with cod, John Cabot dropped anchor in 1497. Fishermen came by the boat load from England, Ireland, Scotland, France and Spain and began to feed on the fish of the New World.

Our 3rd night on the road is being spent in Baddeck Cabot Trail campground.

This area was chosen for our last two nights' stay in Nova Scotia as it is only 45 minutes from North Sidney where the ferry to Newfoundland will be boarded.

To get into the groove of traveling again we stayed at an RV park, the River Place, not too far from our home.
After two weeks in this park we left Mt. Forest at 9:30 A.M. on Monday July 9th and traveled to Drummondville, Quebec.

This town is located between Montreal and Quebec City on the South shore of the St. Lawrence River. This was the most beautiful, peaceful but expensive park we have ever frequented. Oh well life is short... fish hard (an old saying from Alaska). The second night was spent in a park on the North side of Moncton, New Brunswick. It was okay but we would not return due to crowded sites and the unwarranted high cost. Truck stops and Wal-Marts are not an option in 32 degree C weather.

In Baddeck the temp is 18C/65F degrees and there is a refreshing breeze with a tinge of the sea in it. At last we have escaped the heat and humidity of Southern Ontario.

After Jannich set up the trailer and the satellite dish he picked up fried clams for Ruth from the on-site restaurant.

Thursday we are going to explore the town of Baddeck. From our first quick viewing this town appears to be similar to Niagara-On-The-Lake with respect to inns, B&B, dining areas and gold leaf signs. This is not what we expected after driving hundreds of miles through the dense bush of Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.

Our photo albums: