Exploring....

During the five days we have been staying at the Viking RV park just outside L'Anse aux Meadows we have explored many small settlements. From Rawley and Burnt Cape to Quirpon (rhymes with harpoon) and Hay Cove we have admired the beautiful coastline and tried the local food in small restaurants.

Shops are set up to in a very upscale, slick manner to serve the hundreds of visitors from across the USA and Europe. One re-enactor at Norstead told us that on a regular summer day they will have between 300 to 400 visitors. At this time with the temperatures dropping and many days of rain, large buses full of tourists, rental cars and every type of camping unit can be seen in the parking lots and on the roads.

In spite of all these people here, it is very quiet as this is an extremely isolated area . We have made two trips to St. Anthony which is the only centre for banking, hospital and other needs. Almost every community has a small convenience or grocery store but St. Anthony is the only place to shop without traveling south out of the Northern Peninsula.

Saturday September 1st, we leave here to catch the ferry to Labrador.
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NORSTEAD, Viking Village and Port of Trade

Norstead is also located in L'Anse aux Meadows near the UNESCO site. It is a replication of a Viking Village and Port of Trade. Norstead Village is a not for profit organization that was created in 2000 to mark the 1000th anniversary of Leif Erikson's journey from Greenland across the North Atlantic. Norstead extends this story by presenting the typical life in a
more permanent settlement.
The interpreters are quite colourful and love to entertain their visitors.

The Snorre, which is on display at the site, is a 50 foot copy of a Viking cargo ship found in a bog outside Roskilde Denmark. This ship was built in Maine, USA, then transported to Greenland and was sailed to L'Anse aux Meadows in 2000.
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L'Anse aux Meadows

As the site of the first European settlement in North America more than 1000 years ago, L'Anse aux Meadows is among the world's most significant archaeological properties. Tuesday August 28th we visited this site.

The outlines of Norse encampments can still be seen at this UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are replicated sod huts in order to let one experience what it would have been like inside the buildings. Walking trails give dramatic views of the ocean. Jannich found it interesting to chat with a Viking re-enactor who helped to re-create life as it was in this harsh environment.








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From Horse Chops to Cow Head

By Saturday August 25th. we had left Clarenville, travelled through Grand Falls-Windsor, turned off the TCH and had gone north towards Gros Morne National Park. After driving through stunning scenery and small mountains we reached the flat area that threads along side the ocean. Near the north end of the park we turned off the main road into a little place called Cow Head. Here we booked into a RV park with an ocean view. This is the home of Gros Morne Theatre Festival which runs from May until September. Because of this there are many B&Bs, a big motel and restaurants. We tried out chowder and fish and chips on Sunday. We have had better.

Every small cove is different! We do not know why it is called Cow Head either..............

Continuing north on the Viking trail we plan to arrive in St. Anthony on Monday August 27th

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Horse Chops

When we got back to our RV after our trip to English Harbour and checked in the tourist guides we found that this narrow gravel road was one where people should walk!
We had driven for about two kilometers (no shoulders and no guard rails) along this bumpy road that went along the top of a cliff toward a point, when we decided to turn around when we still could.
We got out of the car to to let Winston have a little exercise and to take in the view. We were surrounded by stunning scenery as we were at least 80 to a 100 feet above the ocean. In the distance we could see a boat near the shore. Using binoculars we realized that this was a whale watching boat. Then we turned our attention to the water and we were in for a treat. With practically an aerial view we watched whales diving, spouting and swimming close to the surface. What a wonderfully un-expected sight as we were in a premier whale watching site and did not know it.

We left uplifted and happy we had taken this road and never did find out what was at the end. We read in the tourist guide that the road we had been on was called the road to HORSE CHOPS. No explanation why it was called that.

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Random Passage, film set

The next day we drove back to Bonaventure which is a typical out-port community with an active fishery, and finally on to New Bonaventure. We stopped for coffee and a snack in a converted school house and walked about 1/2 km to the film site.
This site was constructed in 2000 for the filming for the international TV mini series, "Random Passage". Here you get an opportunity to imagine the life of the people in the early 1800s in a typical fishing outpost. We had an excellent guide to show us through the houses, church, school, gardens and fish flakes. First she gave us a run down on the story line, then in the pouring rain fed us interesting tidbits in each building. The tour was approximately 1 1/2 hour in length and we left with a deepened respect for the people of Newfoundland.

Making our way home we decided to check out two more coves. Champney's and English Harbour. English Harbour seemed to be the end of the road but we saw a narrow gravel path leading out of town toward the sea so we decided to see where it led.

Now, to find out what was at the end of the road check the next blog.

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Trinity

We were on the way to take a day trip to New Bonaventure when we noticed a small town called Trinity. We decided to go in and take a quick look. What a surprise! Here we found an extraordinarily picturesque community nestled at the bottom of the cliffs of Trinity Bay. This town was full of tourists and there were no lack of places for them to visit. The gift shops were upscale and extremely expensive. Artisans were predominant and substantial historical houses filled the downtown.A well known professional theatre, Rising Tides Theatre runs dramas all summer. This theatre does an outdoor historical pageant that takes one through the lanes of Trinity. All of the buildings are restored at a historically correct manner. No vinyl siding is allowed even on private resident dwellings. Sea kayaking, whale watching, walking tours and mussel farm viewing are available as activities. At the Dock Marina Restaurant we had the best seafood chowder and fish and chips we have ever eaten.

Needless to say we spent so much time here that we did not get to Bonaventure that day.

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Susie's Cafe

From Bonavista we took a day trip down the west side of the peninsula visiting the little coves along the way. We went off the main road to check out Duntara. We had noticed Susie's Cafe on the way out and on our return trip we stopped in for lunch. This very small restaurant specializes in traditional Newfoundland food. That day Jannich tried Fish n Brewis and Ruth had Cod au Gratin. For dessert we tried their wonderful homemade blueberry cheesecake and blueberry puff. We are both having a bit of trouble with the high amount of salt in the main courses and the very sweet desserts we are served.

The flipper pie we bought at BIDGOOD'S store earlier on our trip was cooked in our RV one evening while we were at Belleview Beach. The odour of it cooking was unusual so we decided to give the pie to our neighbours at the camp, who were from Newfoundland. They told us that seal is an acquired taste. We probably will not acquire it. The server at Susie's cafe told us that the people ate seal out of necessity but they prefer steak and pork chops when given the choice.

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OUTPORTS

A day trip was taken to two out-port coves, Elliston and Maberly. Maberly has magnificent panoramic views of the rugged north Atlantic. We noticed isolated saltbox houses that were being restored by their new out of province owners.

Elliston is known as the "Root Cellar Capital of the World". It has 134 documented root cellars with some dating back to the 1830s. More than forty have been restored to optimum storage condition for the benefit of the tourists. The people of this region of Newfoundland tried to become self sufficient to ease the grip of the mercantile firms. One historical plaque states that a poor crop of turnips, potatoes and carrots was as devastating as a poor fishing year.







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The Mockbeggar Plantation

The Mockbeggar Plantation is thought to be the oldest fishery plantation in Newfoundland. The wooden salt box fish-store is believed to have been built around 1733, making it the oldest surviving wooden structure on the coast. Over the years it has served as a salt fish store, salmon packing house, salt store, fish dryer, barter shop, residence of owner, temporary Methodist Church (1871), headquarters for the newly established Salvation Army Corps (1886), and miscellaneous warehousing purposes in more recent years. From 1939 to 1966 the property was occupied by F. Gordon Bradley, a lawyer and politician who, after playing a significant role in the move to bring Newfoundland into Confederation with Canada, became Newfoundland's first representative in the Canadian cabinet, and later served as a member of the Senate.

Joey Smallwood and Gordon Bradley had many meetings in the ornate library of this house.





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The DUNGEON.

Just before our dry camp area one could drive through the community pasture to a very unusual rock formation known as the Dungeon. It is a twin entrance sea cave with a collapsed roof which has been carved into the cliff face by the incessant action of the sea.


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Cape Bonavista Lighthouse

When we arrived in Bonavista we could not find a RV park that could accommodate our trailer so we made a winding trip through the downtown to the information kiosk. We were told that we could dry camp in an open area close to the Cape. We stayed here five days and were continuously buffeted by high winds. We were told that the Cape is the most windy spot in Newfoundland. Two trips were made to the lighthouse where we participated in a guided tour.This lighthouse was in use from 1843 until it was decommissioned in 1962 when the light at the Cape was automated and placed in an exterior steel tower. During both trips we admired the hundreds of puffins perched outside their burrows and flitting about. We would have loved to have spent more time watching the puffins.











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A BONA VISTA!

A Bona Vista, Giovanni Caboto (John Cabot) has been quoted as saying in 1497, when he sighted land and claimed New-Founde-Lande for Britain. He noted the plentiful cod stocks and for the next several hundred years people arrived from England, Ireland, Portugal and France to fish.

With the growth of Bonavista's population, merchants soon established mercantile centres to buy the planters' (people who established the new community) fish and to sell them goods.
Many exporting firms became very wealthy as can be seen in the reconstructed Ryan Premises. It is a National Historic Site of Canada which commemorates five centuries of commercial fishing on the east coast. Bonavista became the principal mercantile centre on the northeast coast during the mid eighteen hundreds. Houses and outbuildings were built on land well back from the water making use of narrow paths which eventually became became lane ways and roads threading in every direction across marshes and over hills. We enjoyed these narrows winding roads as we took photos of different kinds of architecture and fences.

Nearby is a full scale replica of John Cabot's ship "The Matthew". It was built by Newfoundland shipwrights and can be toured.







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Roadside BAKEAPPLE purchase

After a trip to Arnold's Cove for groceries we decided to stop to buy some Bakeapple preserves from a roadside vendor. Many people sell preserves and knitted goods at the roadside.

We met Mary from Chance Cove who supplements her income by selling preserves and home knitting along the TCH. She makes the jam but she stated that she didn't have the legs to walk on the bogs anymore. Someone else picks the berries for her. Families look after each other as Mary continues to live alone in her own house with her sons' help.

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The RELOCATIONS!

In Placentia, Ruth visited the O'Reilly House Museum while Winston and Jannich went for a walk. It was too hot to leave Winston in the truck.

Here a second re-location process was discovered. Joey Smallwoood decided in 1957 to "urge" people in the out-port coves to "relocate" to "growth centres". If 80 percent agreed, everybody had to move. In this area, Placentia and Arnold's Cove were two of the growth centres.
After this museum tour, Ruth decided that the people in the out-port Coves in Newfoundland have been used to achieve the goals of other people without much consultation.

This re-location process continued until 1977.

We ate lunch at Belle's restaurant which is located in a historic home.

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Ship Harbour.

On a battle ship off the shore of Ship Harbour Roosevelt and Churchill met in 1941 to sign the Atlantic Charter. They also celebrated the building the Air/Naval base at Argentia,



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Caplin still running...

Saturday August 11th, Jannich noticed large numbers of sea gulls flying and dipping over Trinity Bay near Bellevue Beach. Upon investigation he saw waves of caplin still coming on shore so that they could spawn. Many people were watching this as caplin continue to be seen spawning in August is very unusual.
Normally this process ends by mid July.

The next day as we sat on this same shore enjoying the view, the wind and the sun we were treated to some whale activity. One large and one small whale surfaced numerous times as they made their way across the cove.
They were enjoying the caplin too.


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Irish Loop

Setting off at 1 PM on August 8th from St. John's for the short drive to Witless, Mobile and Ferryland, we stopped at Bay Bulls' tourism information centre to find out the location of RV parks. We were informed that the two parks on the East side of the peninsula did not have electric and water hook ups. The guide said, "Just haul over to the side of the road and park in a gravel pit!"

We had planned on spending over a week in The Irish Loop area. After traveling to south of Ferryland without finding a suitable place to stop, as well as the long miles of driving through wilderness that we could see ahead of us, the decision to turn around 85 kilometers south of St. John's was made. This is not easy towing a large trailer.

We returned to the TCH West and booked back into Bellevue Beach Park. It was like coming home.
Thursday August 9th, high winds and heavy rain soaked most of Newfoundland. We were happy not to be camped in a gravel pit beside the road.

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The Rooms, St. John's

"Soaring into the skyline of historic St. John's, The Rooms combines twenty-first century technology with a striking visual reference to our past.

In our new rooms, you'll find collections, exhibits and programs that tell our stories and interpret our natural world through art, artifacts, archaeology, architecture and archival records."
This quote is from the visitors' guide for The Rooms.

This is a showplace of modern architecture and interactive displays while honouring the seafaring past of this area. We capped our visit here with lunch in the fourth floor cafe. A window seat with a 180 degree view of St. John's and of the harbour, excellent service and food and fine table linen completed the impression of the diversity of this historic city.

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Cape Spear

Since 1836, the Cape Spear lighthouse has guided ships along the coastline of St. John's.
It has been recognized as a National Historic Site of Canada.

Visiting here made a perfect end to our time in the Capital City. The rugged beauty and the power of the ocean are awesome. All of this history and beauty are accessible and close to St. John's.

As we were arriving at the Cape parking lot we could see the fog moving in. It was just like a big grey blanket. Hearing the fog horn as we climbed to lighthouse was an experience in itself!

Cape Spear is the most eastern point in North America.

Wednesday August 8Th we will be taking the Irish Loop south to Witless Bay.







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Unique and Historic

Enjoy these photos of the downtown historic and colourful sections of St John's. The one shot contains the new Museum/Provincial Archives /Art Gallery called "The Rooms". therooms.ca

In the fishing communities' past, families came together to process their catch in groups of steep roofed buildings.
This state-of-the-art cultural facility is a new unique landmark named to remember these collections of small buildings that can still be found throughout the coves.

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Pippy Park, St. John's NL

August 2nd we made the short drive from Bellevue Beach to Pippy Park which is located in the centre of St. John's. Signal Hill, Water St. and Bidgoods in Goulds have been visited. Tonight, Sunday August 5th we are returning to Signal Hill to watch an 18th century military drill (TATTOO).

Winston was a big hit with everybody on Water St. The panhandlers used him as a lead in to get our attention. A Busker's festival was in progress here. At Bidgood's Cove we purchased several food items to try: Flipper pie (seal flippers), salted caplin and salted beef to make an Jigg's dinner.
We tried a touton with molasses at their cafe.

Between salty and sweet,
Our taste buds are in for a treat.
Ruth Peter-Nielsen

The photo shows part of the view of St. John's harbour from Signal Hill.





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Tropical storm Chantal

Monday and Tuesday July 29 and 30th severe winds brew across the inlet at Bellevue beach. Tuesday night and Wednesday were a night and day of steady rainfall. Our RV was surrounded by huge puddles and a ditch full of water. They were large enough to have waves and a current. Our TV reception was limited so on Thursday we decided to find out what had occurred.
Six nearby towns had declared a "State of emergency" as they were cut off by severe wash-outs. 184 mm of rain fell on Dunnville and Placentia in a twelve hour period.
The ferry from Sidney NS to Argentia NL was re-routed for 2 days as there was a very limit way in and out of this coastal area.

Many asphalt driveways looked as though they had been picked up and shaken like a rug leaving drainage pipes and boulders strewn about.

As one can see in the photos the water is still swirling and boiling through these small villages. The houses are perched on the side of rocky areas leading down to the shore and water makes its own route....


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